The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 318: Zoe Sayetta on Cognitive Dissonance, Competitiveness, & Body Image in Climbing

Coach Zoe Sayetta is back on the show, and this time she’s talking about something she’s been seeing constantly in her coaching: athletes who have trouble holding two fee

TBP 317: How to Overcome Climbing Plateaus with Alex Stiger

Coach Alex Stiger joins Neely to break down what a "plateau" actually is — because most climbers lump together very different problems under that one word, and that's par

TBP 316: Consent On and Off the Wall with Author Lillian Frances

Lillian Frances is a rock climber, music producer, and the author of Finger Banging for Climber Boys, a 50-page illustrated guide to female sexual pleasure, consent, and

TBP 315: Climbing Hard at 70 & 56 and Full-Time Road Life with the Odettes

Chuck Odette is 70 years old, has been climbing for 47 years, and is currently projecting 5.13 with a hip replacement on the horizon and a shoulder replacement behind him

TBP 314: Lifestyle & Training Changes Matt Made to Send a 3-Season Project

Coach Matt Pincus recently sent a three-season project at Wolf Point, and we thought you might be able to take something away from his experience on it. He changed a lot

TBP 313: Research on Burnout, Performance, and Mental Health in Climbers with Dr. Maria Stefania Ionel

Dr. Maria Stefania Ionel is a clinical and sport psychologist, postdoctoral researcher, and 8b climber based in Romania who has spent the last decade studying the psychol

TBP 312: Navigating Relationship Issues with Your Climbing Partner

Neely Quinn and climbing coach Alex sit down to talk through one of the most common — and least discussed — challenges in climbing: the friction between partners. They co

TBP 311: How to Get Out of Your Own Way with Board Climbing

Matt Pincus is back, and this time we're going deep on the how of board climbing — not the pros and cons of each board like we talked about last time.  Matt will tell you

TBP 310: What to Do about Migraines as an Athlete with Dr. Danielle Wilhour

In this episode, I talk with neurologist and headache specialist Dr. Danielle Wilhour about migraine headaches and how they affect climbers and athletes, in general. We d

TBP 309 :: Why Climbers Are So Anxious About Food — And What to Do About It

In this solo episode, host and integrative nutrition therapist Neely Quinn digs into a topic that doesn't get enough airtime in the climbing world: food anxiety. Neely br

TBP 308: Overtraining - The Causes and Consequences, and How to Stop Doing It

In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger and I talked about the ways we see our clients overtraining and the consequences it has on their bodies, minds, and climbing performanc

TBP 307: Board Climbing Pros, Cons, and Best Practices with Matt Pincus

Coach Matt Pincus came on the show to talk about something he knows a LOT about: board climbing! It’s a popular topic and he gets a lot of questions from his clients abou

TBP 306 :: A Kinder Way to Work through Fear of Falling with Therapist Emma McAdam

Therapist Emma McAdam discusses using exposure therapy, mindfulness, and self compassion to decrease fear of falling in climbing. Emma is a Licensed Marriage and Family T

TBP 305: What Alex Wishes She'd Known As A Beginner Climber

In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger gives some sage advice to beginner climbers about how to get off to a great start in your climbing journey. Alex is a climbing coach to

TBP 304: Mindset Coaching Session about Bullying Leading to Imposter Syndrome

In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Maren Krammer, a 33-yr-old climber who struggles to feel like she is a part of the community when she’s surround

TBP 303: Natalia Grossman on Knee Surgery, Competition Mindset, & Training

Natalia Grossman is a 24-year-old American professional climber who lives in Salt Lake City, Utah. She broke onto the World Cup scene in 2021 when she became the overall

TBP 302: The Value in NOT Sending Your Projects

In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger and I reflect on the important lessons and mindset shifts we've gained after NOT sending projects. Whether it's a renewed motivation to

TBP 301: Three Habits That Have Made Matt and Me Better Climbers

Coach Matt Pincus and I sat down and talked through 3 habits that we have formed over months or years that have led us to become better climbers.  Matt’s 3 Habits Doing

TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson came on the show to talk about common wrist injuries and how to rehab them so you can get back to climbing and training how you want to. You may remember

TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about capsulitis, whi